Embarking on a kayak fishing expedition is one of the most exciting things that can happen to us kayak fishermen. After all the days and weeks of planning and preparing, we finally come to the point of having to to pack everything. It is possible that the thought 'how is all that stuff supposed to fit into my small kayak?' might enter your mind. Here's a few tips on getting it right.
Keeping things dry is obviously pretty important in a kayak, and especially so in an Adventure Island (which can make for a wet ride in rough conditions). There are various ways to pack gear to keep it secure and dry. Plastic bags are for sure the cheapest way to store gear in a more or less waterproof fashion: stuff everything into (thick) plastic bags & and tie them up. Unfortunately, this is also the least reliable method. If you choose this method make sure to take heaps of spare bags, because the plastic bags have a tendency to tear or rip while being stuffed into the hull. Waterproof drums are another good & secure way to keep things dry. But because of their bulkiness they are difficult to fit through the hatch and hard to store inside the hull, and are therefore most often used in open canoes.
Roller dry bags are probably the most common way to store items in a kayak, particularly handy for storing inside the hull. They come in a great variety of shapes, sizes and materials but most of them feature a 'roll down' mechanism to make them completely splash-proof (but not necessarily submersible waterproof). Because of their flexibility they are perfectly suited to be packed inside the kayak. It can be a good idea to use several smaller ones instead of a single larger drybag. They are easier to handle and carry, fit easier through the hatches, and can help to keep things organised. Colour-coded strings attached to the bags stored in the tips can make retrieving the particular one you're after a lot easier (alternatively, different coloured bags can also help).
Waterproof cases are the most stable and reliable solution, typically offering 100% submersible proofing. They are available in a great variety of sizes and colours and are ideal if you really want to ensure everything stays safe and dry. They are also perfectly suited for storage of first aid kits, electronics, optics or photography equipment. These cases are not cheap and not the lightest either, but are designed to withstand everything nature (and humans) can throw at them, including heat, salt water, sand, dust, and snow. They really give you the security of knowing that what ever is inside one of these cases will stay safe and dry no matter what. I use a Pelican 1550 as main storage in the rear storage well. It fits perfectly in there, and has enough room for my camping/sleeping gear. 
Try to pack with some sort of system. Start with small bags, and pack them in the tight spaces. Very heavy things ( e.g. the water bag) should be packed right behind the seat, along the centreline and as low as possible. Things you don't need on a daily basis (e.g. the repair kit) can go into the tips (stern & bow) of the kayak. Other things like food, or the first aid kit should be within easy reach. Weight distribution should be even, with roughly 2/3 of the weight in the back, 1/3 in the front. Especially on the AI, I would try to keep the nose light to prevent nosediving and help it through the waves. If ever exeriencing weather coking (bow turning into the wind) your bow is too heavy. Move some weight to the back. And vice versa, if your stern is turning into the wind, move some weight forward. A well packed kayak will track well and straight in most conditions, so make minor adjustments to the position of gear and distribuition of weight if you experience steering and performance issues.
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Another thing to consider is the deck load. Try to keep packing things on top of your hull to a minimum. For one it raises the centre of weight, which results in a less stable kayak and also creates more resistance in the wind, which can lead to weather helming or cocking. Of course it is OK to store things in the rear storage well, just don't pack it to high. The kayak should be packed right next to the water, ideally already partly supported by the water. Don't pack it while still on the wheel cart. Also remember that it will be much harder to drag the fully loaded kayak. Don't lift a fully packed kayak only by the bow / stern handle (especially a fibreglass or carbon fibre one). Ideally a full kayak is carried by 4 people, one on both the bow and stern, and one left and right of the cockpit. Be careful, probably more people injure themselves roof topping and carrying a kayak than paddling one.
