Carl wrote:

So true Carl, but on the bright side we have beautiful weather to catch no big fish with.
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Holger wrote:


For what it is worth Holger, my Ram holders are positioned at the front of the rear bar, thus preventing any lurching back of my rods during a strike whilst trolling.
However the Ram tube rod holders don't work so well in a static situation, mainly when lines go out to the side and front as there is little to prevent that sudden jolt sideways or forward.
In these situations I depend on a Scotty fixed rod holder to the right of the Mirage drive catering for the bigger fish.
I do applaud the bullhorn idea, but after spending the money on fittings and Ram bits I will stick with the current setup. Hope that helps.
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Following on ....

with an aggressive file, start the process of making the hole go out to the outline


take the hole to its boundary and shape further by fitting and marking for fine-tuneing with the rasp


sit the chair into the hole and further tune to suit


all fittings and pads on, feel the luxury


everything in position, the flexibility enables fine-tuning


The New seat was a winner, except for crappy screws.
Once you have replaced them, another bit of insurance would be to brace the base of the rear of the seat with strong zipties or light turnbuckle as the new cutouts have undermined the structure slightly.


I intend to lift the front of my seat with blocks slightly as well so I can access the newly found asset provided.
Fish in a mini livewell.


Have fun
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After most would applaud the Skipper seat modification that Josh has so carefully illustrated with "how to" instructions and step by step photographs, several may wonder how comfortable it is.
Me included.
For this reason I didn't commit for quite some time as I am nearly 6'5" and the thought of my head being whacked by the foot of the sail on every turn, wasn't encouraging.
Then after 3 to 4 years of hammering the AI at least once a week, my original seat with the Icomfort seat add-on finally gave up the ghost and slipped out of its locating holes for the last time.(This was with the lock-in adapters)

Time for a review.
Did somebody mention a dry arse as well?
How can I make the Skipper seat idea work for me?
So I got one in and sized it up.
With blocks in place, I was able to replicate the seating position.
The leg length was only a problem if I allowed the seat to fit down into the original hole. Additionally, my hatch would now also be obscured.
To fit the seat further back meant it was too high.
How do I make it work half way between the two and insure its stability.

I considered 2 ways it could work.
The first was a hot air gun ... ala paint stripper, to modify the base plastic so it would be reshaped somewhat to the original seat hole with steady methodical persuasion.
I thought this a bit risky, especially as it had to go back too far as well to accommodate my long legs.

Plan B. By cutting the rear corners out of the base of the seat, I could drop it down a couple of inches and back a couple as well, providing more stability in the process.

After fitting the seat following all the steps illustrated below as well as Josh's original instructions, I tested it on the water last weekend.
I was impressed, however certain fine tuning was mandatory.

Starting with an empty space.


Size up the seat's best position for you.


Attach bluetack for template line


Press rope onto bluetack template line


paint rope with a colour to contrast with seat plastic


Sit seat on rope to create a guide line template


define the template line.... starting conservatively small


Drill holes or cut plastic inside the line
Read More...

After most would applaud the Skipper seat modification that Josh has so carefully illustrated with "how to" instructions and step by step photographs, several may wonder how comfortable it is.
Me included.
For this reason I didn't commit for quite some time as I am nearly 6'5" and the thought of my head being whacked by the foot of the sail on every turn, wasn't encouraging.
Then after 3 to 4 years of hammering the AI at least once a week, my original seat with the Icomfort seat add-on finally gave up the ghost and slipped out of its locating holes for the last time.(This was with the lock-in adapters)

Time for a review.
Did somebody mention a dry arse as well?
How can I make the Skipper seat idea work for me?
So I got one in and sized it up.
With blocks in place, I was able to replicate the seating position.
The leg length was only a problem if I allowed the seat to fit down into the original hole. Additionally, my hatch would now also be obscured.
To fit the seat further back meant it was too high.
How do I make it work half way between the two and insure its stability.

I considered 2 ways it could work.
The first was a hot air gun ... ala paint stripper, to modify the base plastic so it would be reshaped somewhat to the original seat hole with steady methodical persuasion.
I thought this a bit risky, especially as it had to go back too far as well to accommodate my long legs.

Plan B. By cutting the rear corners out of the base of the seat, I could drop it down a couple of inches and back a couple as well, providing more stability in the process.

After fitting the seat following all the steps illustrated below as well as Josh's original instructions, I tested it on the water last weekend.
I was impressed, however certain fine tuning was mandatory.

Starting with an empty space.


Size up the seat's best position for you.


Attach bluetack for template line


Press rope onto bluetack template line


paint rope with a colour to contrast with seat plastic


Sit seat on rope to create a guide line template


define the template line.... starting conservatively small


Drill holes or cut plastic inside the line
Read More...